MAKING SECRETS
Shoes have always protected feet from harm and dirt, rough surfaces and bad weather. This product will long remain a clothing accessory, one that must first be attractive before it is worn. Despite mechanisation, the shoe industry is still labour-intensive.150 operations are necessary to produce a pair of shoes.
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
DESIGN : The entire process starts with the style. Many designs and sketches are made according to fashion. Two collections are prepared each year (summer-winter), taking into account the shapes, colours, materials and chosen accessories.
MODELLING : The last is made, in a basic size, according to the design of the shoe. The lines of each element of the design are reproduced on the last and stretched (a two dimensional representation) to obtain the standard. These operations are performed very quickly using CAD (Computer Assisted Design).
PATTERN-CUTTING : whatever the method used, this operation consists in determining the final outlines of the different parts of the sample upper for industrial production.
RANGE (SIZES) : The various sizes of the model parts are obtained (scaled up) from the base-size (sample-size) to create a range. Size 41, for example, allows for a range of sizes between 39 and 46.
CUTTING : All the components of the uppers are cut out of selected materials, such as leather, textile, etc., irrespective of the cutting technique used, whether manual cutting, press-knife cutting, laser or water-jet cutting.
PREPARATION FOR STITCHING : the various components of the uppers undergo operations such as skiving, folding, perforating, etc...
STITCHING : To form the upper, the parts are joined together by stitching. Ornamental seams are sewn at this stage.
ROUGH ROUNDING PREPARATION : Bottom parts, such as the insole, sole, heel, etc... are assembled using the upper section of the last as a gauge.
ASSEMBLY AREA OR ROOM : The last, the upper, the insole and the sole are joined together by pair and size, and the lasts are put together and matched up into sets for the lasting room as required.
CEMENTING
Technical construction where the sole is bonded by cementing on the tack-lasted upper.
LASTING : During lasting, the insole, which is the keystone of the shoe, is positioned on the last. The upper covers the last exactly and the excess material is folded onto the insole to which it is cemented. The operation is performed by machines.
CEMENTING PREPARATION : To begin, cement is spread on the underside of the upper and on the sole.
ATTACHING : The sole is manually positioned on the insole.
CEMENTING : The sole is cemented to the shoe through high pressure being applied to the upper part of the shoe.
LOCKSTITCHED SEAM
Lockstitched seam : The sole or insole is attached permanently to the welt by a "lockstitched seam". This stitching is still visible when the shoe is finished.
MOCASSIN>>>>>>>>>>>>>>SANDAL
INSPECTION
INSPECTION, CLEANING AND DRESSING ROOM : The shoe is inspected, cleaned, dressed and polished. Heel socks, laces and the brand label are added.
PACKING : The shoe is checked and then packed for sale.
